All about Knitted Fabric : A Lab Technician Explains to you

As a professional in the textile industry, you must encounter the term “knitted fabric” daily. As a textile laboratory engineer, I would be happy to present you with a comprehensive article on knitted fabric. After reading this article, you will be able to handle the design and production processes of knitted fabric with a deeper understanding of its technical aspects.

What is considered a Knit Fabric? 

Firstly, we should know what knits mean. Knits refer to making Knit fabric by interconnecting the yarn loops using needles. In a Knit fabric, the first loop of yarn is entangled with the second loop. Similarly, it goes on to make a chain structure. If a single loop of yarn breaks, then the whole structure can be disturbed because all loops are connected to each other.

Physical testing of fabric confirms that knit fabric is porous, elastic, and more comfortable than woven garments. Its production process is easy and can be made cheaper than the woven fabric. Knit fabric is lightweight, which gives comfort during outdoor activities and travel.

Knitted fabric resists wrinkles. It is mostly used for sports outfits due to its elastic nature.

Concept of Wale and Course 

In Knitting, as we know, the fabric is produced with a single yarn by intermeshing the loops. So here is a concept regarding the direction of yarn loops, which is followed in the cloth testing laboratory.

Wale: The vertical loops of yarn are called wale.

Course: The horizontal loops of yarn are called course.

Example of Knitted Fabrics 

Knitted fabrics perform better in comfort, flexibility, and breathability than woven fabrics. So, knitted fabrics are commonly used in clothes that are worn daily. It includes T-shirts, sweaters, leggings, socks, shorts, jackets, coats and baby rompers.

Why is Knit Fabric Stretchy? 

The knit fabrics are stretchy and elastic and give more comfort to the wearer than woven fabrics. It is due to the interloping structure of yarn that gives the fabric a space to stretch and then revert to its original shape.

The tightness of intermeshing affects the stretching ability of the fabric. It will keep the fabric straight. The main factors that affect the knit fabric stretchiness are below.

1. Yarn Type
2. Knitting Technique
3. Needle Size
4. Tension
5. Fabric Density

How is Knitting Done? 

Knitting is done with a single yarn by making yarn loops through needles. These loops are interwoven to each other to create a fabric sheet. It’s a common use of this fabric in clothing.

Classification of knitting Techniques 

There are multiple techniques of knitting. Here is the name of all the main knitting techniques.

Basic Techniques 

1. Cast On (CO)
2. Knit (K)
3. Purl (P)
4. Bind Off (BO)
5. Rib Stitch
6. Stockinet Stitch
7. Garter Stitch

Textured Techniques

1. Cable Knitting
2. Fair Isle Knitting
3. Intarsia Knitting
4. Lace Knitting
5. Brioche Knitting
6. Slip-Stitch Knitting
7. Mosaic Knitting

Shaping Techniques 

1. Increasing (inc)
2. Decreasing (dec)
3. Binding Off in Pattern
4. Picking Up Stitches
5. Knitting in the Round
6. Short Rows
7. Wrap and Turn

Finishing Techniques

1. Weaving in Ends
2. Blocking
3. Seaming
4. Joining Shoulders
5. Picking Up Stitches for Sleeves
6. Knitting Buttonholes
7. Sewing Buttons

Decorative Techniques 

1. Embroidery
2. Cross-Stitch
3. Duplicate Stitch
4. Knitted Flowers
5. Beading
6. Appliqué
7. Tassels and Fringe

Advanced Techniques

1. Double Knitting
2. Entrelac Knitting
3. Domino Knitting
4. Multi-Directional Knitting
5. Knitting with Two or More Colors
6. Steeking
7. Knitting with Beads or Sequins

Specialty Techniques 

1. Finger Knitting
2. Arm Knitting
3. Loom Knitting
4. Needle Felting
5. Knitting with Wire
6. Knitting with Crochet
7. Tunisian Knitting

Machine Knitting Techniques

1. Flat Bed Knitting
2. Circular Knitting
3. Warp Knitting
4. Jacquard Knitting
5. Intarsia Machine Knitting
6. Fair Isle Machine Knitting
7. Automatic Knitting

The Different Types of Knit Fabrics

The different types of knit fabrics are created by adjusting the needle speed and thread tension using various knitting machines in the textile lab.

The two main types of knit garments are listed below.

1. Warp Knit Fabrics
2. Weft Knit Fabrics

Both types of fabrics are made by yarn interloping. There are small differences in their physical look. Let’s have a look at these types.

1. Warp Knit Fabrics 

Warp knit fabric is created by interloping the yarn in a V shape. Its pattern is more complicated than that of a weft knit. Its production is fast, and a lot of fabric can be produced. Warp knit has more strength than weft knit garments.

In warp knit fabric manufacturing, threads must be straightened from their spool on a warp beam.

Examples of Warp Knit Fabrics 

1. Tricot Fabric
2. Raschel Fabric
3. Powernet Fabric
4. Net Fabric

Here are a few details on warp knit fabrics.

Tricot Fabric   

Warp knit fabrics have more strength than weft knits. Warp knits are used for athletic shorts like football and other games without using elastic material. If we use spandex or any elastic material, then it is used for swimsuits and tights.

Raschel Fabric                              

Raschel fabric is made using a regular Raschel and Jacquard Raschel machine. In this fabric, manmade fiber or synthetic filament is used to create various lace designs for women’s outfits. This lace fabric has a very complicated knitting pattern. It is mostly used in ladies’ sportswear and dancewear.

Powernet Fabric

This fabric is made on Powernet machines. In this fabric manufacturing, we use polyester or nylon fabric with any elastic material like spandex to create Powernet knit. It is mostly used in normal and sports undergarments like underwear and tights.

It is also used in bra interlining to increase support for sports activities.

Net Fabric                     

This fabric is produced by knitting with monofilament yarn. The net fabric has no elasticity. Its famous example is the traditional Indian sari.

2. Weft Knit Fabrics (Circular knit / Tubular knit) 

Weft knit fabrics are the most common type of knit fabrics. It is created on circular machines. In these types, threads are interloped in an exact V shape pattern. This type of fabric has lower resilience ability than warp knits.

Weft knit fabrics are the most common type of knit fabrics. It is created on circular machines. In these types, threads are interloped in an exact V shape pattern. This type of fabric has lower resilience ability than warp knits.

If one loop of yarn breaks, then the whole structure of loops is affected in weft knits. That is why there is a hole in the fabric in weft knits, and then it can easily expand and grow more.

Weft knits can be easily stretched due to their pattern. This type of fabric has more elasticity than warp-knit garments.

Examples of Weft Knit Fabrics                

1. Single jersey fabric

• Plain single jersey fabric
• Pique single jersey fabric
• Baby French terry single jersey fabric

2. Double knit fabric / Interlock fabric

• Plain interlock fabric
• Pique double-knit fabric
• RIB fabric / flat back RIB fabric/drop needle RIB fabric
• Birdseye mesh
• Scuba fabric (spacer fabric, spacer foam fabric, air mesh fabric)
• Pont de Roma fabric

3.   Jacquard fabric

4.   French Terry Fabric / Toweling Fabric / Polar Fleece Fabric

Single Jersey Fabric              

Single jersey fabric can be identified easily. Its front and back sides are not the same. The front side is neat, clean, and plain, while the back side looks rough. This type of fabric is usually thinner and softer.

1. Plain single jersey fabric

Plain jersey fabric is used for T-shirts and underwear.

2. Pique single jersey fabric

Pique single jersey fabric is used for Polo T-shirts.

3. Baby French terry single jersey fabric

Baby French terry single jersey fabric is used for winter clothing. It is used with elastic material to produce stretchy pants that provide more comfort in outdoor activities and sports.

Double knit fabric / Interlock fabric

Double knit fabric, as expressed by its name. The fabric is formed with a double layer of single jersey to create a garment in which the front and back sides are similar, neat, and clean.

1. Plain interlock fabric

The plain interlock fabric is used for baby garments, underwear, and sportswear.

2. Pique double-knit fabric

Pique double knit fabric has both front and back sides in pique form. This fabric is usually thicker than single jersey fabric, and it is used for making polo shirts. Pique shirts are slightly stiffer than single-jersey and double-jersey fabric.

3. RIB fabric / flat back RIB fabric/drop needle RIB fabric

RIB fabric / flat back RIB fabric/drop needle RIB fabrics are used to create shorter length and width fabrics like collars, cuffs, and hems. However, delicate RIB fabric is used to produce large articles.

4. Birdseye mesh

The Birdseye mesh fabric is used for sportswear. It has small holes that provide good ventilation and air circulation through the fabric to maintain the body’s temperature. It gives a comfortable feel during sports and heavy workout activities.

5. Scuba fabric (spacer fabric, spacer foam fabric, air mesh fabric)

Scuba fabric has a relatively hard layer of monofilament yarn between the two sheets of normal garment. It looks like there is foam between the fabric sheets. Hard monofilament between normal layers of fabric enhances the overall garment strength.

It is normally used in Bra and sports Bra. Hard monofilament yarn uses depend upon the requirements of the wearer. There are also scuba fabrics that use normal yarn fabric between the two layers.

The normal thread garment is not as stiff as monofilament yarn. So it totally depends upon the requirement of sports activity.

6. Pont de Roma fabric

This fabric has multiple similar names, like Pot de Roma, Ponte Roma, and Ponte di Roma. This fabric is mostly used to make dress pants and suits. Pont de Roma fabric has a good fall and nice shape.

Jacquard fabric

Jacquard fabric is produced on Jacquard machines, which are of two types.

1. Single Jacquard
2. Double Jacquard

There is a separate machine for single jersey and double jersey fabric. In Jacquard fabric, multiple and various knit patterns can be made using a computer and a machine. Knit designs are drawn through a computer, which gives the possibility for a variety of designs.

This fabric is used for sportswear and swimwear.

French Terry Fabric / Toweling Fabric / Polar Fleece Fabric

This fabric is used to produce polar fleece fabric. Its front side is plain, while the back side shows the thread loops.

Flat Knit Fabrics  

Flat knit fabrics are the type of weft knits. Bit in flat knit, we create fabrics of shorter length and width using this method. For example, this type of knit is used in collars, gloves, and socks.

Characteristics of Knit Fabric   

1. Stretch ability

Knit fabrics are stretchy as compared to woven fabrics. It is due to their looping structure, which gives fabric extra space in case of stretching, and then it recovers to its original state. Stretch ability is tested by fabric lab test machine.

2. Breathability

Knitted fabric tests confirm that its breathability is better than woven fabrics due to its porosity. This structure allows air to pass through it and gives a comfortable feel.

3. Softness 

Knit fabric’s softness is better than woven fabrics. Knit garments are more comfortable and give a better hand-feel finish.

4. Fabric Thickness

Knit fabrics are thicker than woven fabrics.

5. Light Weight

Knit fabrics are lightweight, so they give a comfortable feel to wear.

6. Resistant to Wrinkle 

Knitted fabrics are resistant to wrinkles and creases. It can withstand wear and tear. This test is confirmed in the fabric testing laboratory.

Tips on Working with Knit Fabric 

Here are the practical tips for working with knit fabrics regarding needle size, use of thread for sewing, and techniques for sewing.

Needle Size    

Most knits are sewn in 8 -12 needle sizes. For stretchy garments, use needle sizes 3 -5, which are called twin needles. High stretch knits are sewn by stretch needles in sizes 5 – 7. For better and smoother sewing, use a walking foot or Teflon foot.

Use of Thread                                                 

Cotton knitted fabrics are sewn with cotton threads. You should use matching thread with fabric.  Stretchy knits are sewn by polyester or nylon thread. Serger thread is used for over-lock stitching.

Sewing Techniques    

Seam construction is handled by zigzag stitch. Seams finishing is done by using an overlock machine. Seams curling is avoided by pressing and doing flat. Stretch stitch is used for hemming. A twin needle does topstitching.

What is the Difference between Woven and Knit Fabric?   

What is woven fabric definition?

“The fabric produced by the inter-meshing the two sets of yarn is called woven fabric.”

While the interloping of yarn forms knitted fabrics. Both fabrics have unique characteristics and have their own end-user application.

Here are the main common differences between the woven and knit fabric.

Woven Fabric 

1. Woven fabric is made by the weaving process in which interlacement of warp and weft yarns are carried out to produce the textile. Woven fabric is created on a “Loom” machine. Loon has a big setup and is costly.
2. In woven fabric, we use two sets of yarns to create the fabric. Vertical yarns are called “warp” and horizontal yarn is called “weft”. These warp and weft yarns are interlaced together by up and down way or any other design to make fabric.
3. Woven fabrics are not stretchable or very less stretchable due to their structure. The surface of woven fabrics is usually hard and not stretched. Woven fabric is quite tough because of the over-under weave of the crisscrossing thread structure. It has higher tensile strength.
4. Woven fabric is less comfortable due to its tight structure, more stable, thinner, not wrinkle resistant, easy to sew, and less soft than knitted fabrics.
5. Woven fabric has low absorption capacity, lower recovery properties, and higher labor costs. Woven fabrics need seam finish like surging to prevent ravel.

Knit Fabric   

1. The knitting process involves intermeshing the loops of the yard to produce the fabric. In this process, we use single yarn to create the fabric structure. Knitted fabric is created on a “Knitting” machine. It is less expensive than loom and has a smaller setup.
2. In Knitting, the vertical loop is called “Wale,” and the horizontal loop is called “course.” The surface of Knit fabrics is soft and stretchy. Knit fabric can stretch out easily and does not have a lot of strength.
3. Knitted fabrics are more stretchable and elastic. It is just due to the loop structure that it helps with elasticity. For example, T-shirts, socks, and sweaters can easily stretch, and then they come back to their original position.
4. Knit fabric is very comfortable, soft, and form-fitting, often used for clothing that drapes or hugs the body. This fabric is less stable. It requires very careful handling during wet processing and stitching.
5. Knitted fabric is much thicker, softer, and more breathable, has excellent wrinkle resistance, is not easy to sew due to more elasticity, has more absorption capacity and less labour cost, has higher recovery characteristics, and No seam finish is required.

Conclusion

Knitted fabrics are produced by interconnecting the yarn loops using needles. It has more stretchability, breathability, softness, fabric thickness, and comfort level than woven fabrics. Knitted fabrics are lightweight and resistant to wrinkle & crease.

FAQs

How is Knitted Fabric produced?

Knitted fabric is produced by intermeshing loops of yarn using needles with the machine.

Which knitting technique is mostly used?

There are many knitting techniques, but the ribbing technique is mostly used.

What is the Difference between Wale and Course in Knitting?

In knitting, vertical loops of yarn are called wale, and horizontal loops of yarn are called course.

What are the main types of knit fabrics?

There are two main types of knit fabrics.

• Warp Knit Fabrics
• Weft Knit Fabrics

What are the examples of Warp knit fabric?

Tricot, Raschel, Powernet, and Net fabric are examples of Warp Knit Fabrics.

What are the examples of Weft knit fabric?

Single jersey, double jersey, Jacquard, and French Terry are examples of Weft Knit Fabrics.

Is knitted fabric good?

Knitted fabric is better for comfort, breathability, stretchability, and softness than woven fabric.

Is knit better than cotton?

It depends upon the requirement and intent of use. Knitted fabrics are better at elasticity and comfort than cotton. That’s why knitted fabric is mostly used in sportswear.

Related Resources

ASTM D1777 How to Measure Fabric Thickness

ASTM D5034 A Test You Must Know in a Textile Laboratory

ASTM D5034/ASTM D5035 Electronic Strength Machine YG(B)026HC