ISO 12945.1 standard measures the fabric pilling through random friction. In this testing method, fabric samples are fixed on a tube made of polyurethane material, and those samples are rotated in a crock lined box. This creates a multidirectional friction through which we can evaluate the early fabric pilling.
Applications of ISO 12945.1 To Evaluate the Fabric Pilling Behavior
Definition and Mechanism of Fabric Pilling
“The formation of small fiber balls or pills of fibers on the surface of fabric due to different types of friction during wear, real-life uses, or washing, is called pilling.”
According to the standard of ISO 12945.1, the three main stages of pilling are initially pulling out of these fibers, then entanglement with each other, and finally breaking off of these fiber pills.
Due to friction, the fibers are pulled out, and they are twisted together to form a proper fiber ball. To evaluate fabric pilling, we use a pilling box in which fabric samples are rotated at 60+2 rpm inside a crock lined box.
The synthetic fibers usually show less pilling, while natural fibers like cotton break off quickly.
Effect of Fiber Type, Yarn Structure, and Fabric Structure on Pilling
Pilling on fabric mainly depends on the type of fiber, yarn structure, and fabric weave or knit design. According to the ISO 12945.1 standard, the fabric that is constructed from strong fibers like synthetic fibers, including polyester and polyamide, etc., does not break easily, resulting in less pilling.
While the fabrics that are constructed with yarns having less twist or with staple yarns tend to break easily, or fibers pulled out from their twisted yarn.
On the other hand, knitted fabrics show high pilling due to higher yarn movement. Other relative factors like fabric density, type of finishing, and yarn count also affect the pilling.
During lab testing, the variations are noticed in these three different types of fabric structure, which is why the ISO 12945.1 mainly focused on comparing the results of different types of fabrics
Methods to Use a Pilling Box
Methods to Use a Pilling BoxTesting According to the Standard ISO 12945
The main standard used to evaluate pilling testing is ISO 12945.1. It measures the fabric pilling through random friction. According to this standard, the fabric samples are fixed on a tube made of polyurethane material, and those samples are rotated in a crock lined box.
This creates a multidirectional friction, due to which we can evaluate the early fabric pilling. This pilling box rotates at a speed of 60+-2 rpm. This method allows the different fiber falls, short neps and pilling to create together.
This method is not able to predict fabric span life, but it ranks the fabric performance based on its resistance towards pilling under different types of friction in standardized testing conditions.
Apparatus of the Pilling Box and Its Role in Testing
The ISO 12945.1 pilling tester usually contains a rotating box. The internal dimensions of this box are 235+2 mm, and it is lined with a crock-type sheet, so it can produce friction when it makes contact with fabric.
The box rotates in a horizontal direction, which ensures the random movement of fabric during rotation. Four polyurethane tubes can be used at the same time that hold the fabric, having a length of 140+1 mm, and have a specific weight.
The conditions of the crock sheet are important because improper rotation and speed of rotation can directly affect the pilling results.
Preparation and Conditioning Procedure of Fabric Samples
How to Ensure Proper Conditioning of the Testing Sample?
To achieve accurate results, the testing samples must be properly conditioned and prepared as mentioned in the ISO 139 standard. The samples are cut from equal intervals from the fabric widthwise to a length of 124+1 mm square.
The distortion from the selvedge of the fabric must be prevented so it does not affect the pilling results. According to ISO-139, the testing samples are conditioned for 16 hours at standard pressure and temperature.
Other treatments can be done, like washing or drying, so we can determine real-world fabric performance.
Effect of Testing Cycles, Procedure for Inspection and Visual Evaluation by Pilling Rating
According to ISO 12945.1, the evaluation is not only done by a single reading, but the inspection is done according to the number of testing cycles. The samples are rotated at constant speed, and evaluation is done after the specified number of rotation cycles.
After each stage, the evaluation of the tested samples is done by reference photographic pilling rater. In this rating system, a reading of 5 means no pilling, and a reading near 1 means a high level of pilling.
This evaluation must be done at appropriate lightning conditions, because improper lightning conditions can delay the evaluation process and can produce errors in results.
Interpretation and Application of Pilling Results in Textile Industries
Interpretation and Application of Pilling Results in Textile IndustriesMethod to Assess Fabric Pilling and Causes of Variation
The main reasons for variation in results are improper fabric placement, variation in rotation speed, and visual assessment. Other causes of errors can be uneven yarn hairiness, density of fabric, and fabric blend ratio.
The pilling box can also produce some errors. Some causes are improper cork sheet, speed variation, and improper sample placement on tubes.
There are + 0.5% Chances of Variation that can be produced due to improper visual assessment, due to poor lighting conditions, and the wrong angle of visualization.
Application in the Textile Industry and Pilling Results of Sofa, furniture covers, and Curtains
The results measured according to ISO 12945.1 are commonly used to assess apparel’s durability and indoor textiles. In clothing, the results of Pilling can help us determine the fabric performance during wearing and real-life use.
For curtains and sofa covers, higher values of Pilling resistance are required due to continuous friction. Strong fibers like polyester have the ability to retain pilling, which can cause problems in appearance.
Industry uses the ISO 12945.1 standard to compare pilling results of different types of fabric and to select suitable material and finishing according to different uses and environments.
Conclusion
ISO 12945.1 provides a suitable and standardized method to evaluate the fabric pilling resistance, formation of neps, and fuzzing under real-use conditions.
By testing at control speeds like 60+2 rpm, we can produce reliable results by assessing the tested fabrics with a photographic rater. This helps the textile laboratories to select suitable material and to enhance the quality of apparel and upholstery fabrics.
FAQS
How can the durability of Fabric appearance be determined by ISO 12945.1?
This ISO Standard measures the fabric abrasion to predict its pilling and appearance under controlled testing conditions.
Can the ISO 12945.1 Standard help manufacturers determine fabric pilling?
Yes, it measures the pilling by identifying the fiber type, yarn structure etc., that affect the fabric pilling. This helps the engineers to select suitable materials, finishing, and fabric design for further end uses.
How can testing results be used to lower the pilling?
These results can help us select suitable anti-pilling agents or construct fabrics with an appropriate structure so that less pilling will form on the fabric surface.
Related Resources
Pilling vs Abrasion: How to Switch Your Martindale Tester Configuration Correctly
ISO 12945 2 Martindale Method of Pilling Test
ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Pilling Test: Experience and Insights