The purpose of ASTM D3512 is to evaluate fabric in frictional conditions, like tumbling, by using an abrasive cylindrical drum. Pilling may affect a fabric’s performance and give it an older, worn-out appearance. The ASTM pilling test standard evaluates a fabric’s ability to withstand pilling resistance and plays a significant role in the R&D of fabrics.
What is Fabric Pilling
Pilling is a complex property of fabric caused by tangled protruding fibers while wearing cloth. Normally, pilling can be caused by various factors, including fiber entanglement, growth of additional surface fiber, and degradation of fibers and pills, also called matting. In a fabric testing laboratory, fabric tests would speed up the above-described processes by the same amount and time with any type of fiber, yarn, or fabric.
What is the Random Tumble Pilling Method?
In the fabric testing laboratory, pilling and surface change processes are artificially recreated. For pilling, a random rubbing motion is created by cylinders covered with abrasive material. The sample is passed over these cylinders, and pills are formed. For a close representation of actual pilling, a small amount of cotton fibers is also added along with the sample. Fabric is then evaluated by comparing it with standard and then rated accordingly.
Apparatus for ASTM D3512
- Random Tumble Pilling Tester
- Adhesive
- Vacuum Cleaner
- Grey-dyed cotton fibers
- Light Box for fabric evaluation containing C.W.F illuminant (Cool white fluorescent)
- Photo Graphic Standards (A collection of five images, numbered 1 through 5, showing different levels of pilling from “no change” to “very severe pilling.”)
- In-house pilling test fabrics, previously examined samples of a certain kind of fabric. These fabrics show different levels of pilling.
Sample Preparation for ASTM D3512
- Take full-width samples of 1 meter.
- Cut samples having dimensions 105×105 mm. Cut them so that 45° should be in between course (warp) and wales (weft) in fabric.

Conditioning of Samples
- Place samples at Standard atmospheric conditions for conditioning for about 4 hours. i.e. Relative Humidity=65 ± 4% and Temperature=20 ± 2°C.
Preparation of Apparatus for ASTM D3512
- Carefully fit a cork liner inside the test chamber, with the unutilized cork surface facing the rotor blades. Tape the outside edge of the liner to the chamber wall with the help of masking tape 25 mm wide.
- Discard cork liners after 1 hour of use on any surface.
- After every hour of machine running, take out the cork liner and use a wet towel dipped in soap and water solution to wipe the inside of the chamber and impeller to get rid of dust, dirt, and fiber. Let the chamber dry before using the tester again.
ASTM D3512 Testing Procedure
- Conduct ASTM 3512 in standard atmospheric conditions for testing.
- Turn on the power switch of the random pilling tester. Also, press the light and air buttons.
- Adjust pressure. The air supply pressure of the experimental chamber can reach the standard requirement of 14-21 Kpa.
- Mark the sample and seal the edges with adhesive. The edge should not exceed 3mm. Hang the sample on the rack until the edges are completely dry. Drying time is at least 2 hrs.
- Load the sample in the test chamber by putting the sample and short grey cotton weighing about 25mg and measuring about 6 mm in length. Cork cylinder liners should be lined in each test room.
- Cover the chamber and start the airflow for a run time of 30 minutes. Considering the nature of materials in testing, run time can be changed accordingly.
- Press the START button, turn the motor switch to ON, and the airflow will begin in the test chambers. It has been observed that using air in chambers lowers the possibility of wedging samples against the chamber wall or around the impeller against all knit and woven textiles greatly.
- Each test room should be inspected during operation. Stop the machine if an irregularity is found. Remove the front plate, cut off the air, and release the sample if it gets trapped around the impeller or if it lays motionless on the chamber’s side or bottom. Clean the impeller blade if a specimen gets trapped around it during a run. Any hang-ups or other unusual behavior of the specimens should be noted on the datasheet.
- Take out the sample at the end of the experiment. Use a vacuum precipitator to remove any residual cotton. Hold the sample firmly by a corner, and let the vacuum suction pull it inside. Repeat the process by holding a neighboring corner.
- Proceed to vacuum all samples in this way. Finally, clean the test chamber using a vacuum. If necessary, use a pick needle or other sharp objects to clean the area around the impeller’s shaft
- Grade the sample under a standard light source using a pilling assessment view.

Grading and Evaluation
Pilling Assessment
- Examine the test specimen in the light box, which needs to be in a dimly lit space.
- Using adhesive tape, position the test specimen on the left side and the original fabric on the right side for comparison. With the warp direction vertical, it ought to be in the middle of the cabinet.
Evaluation Scale
- Please grade each specimen according to the following scale. If the sample falls between two grades, indicate “half”. For example, 2-3, 3-4.
Grade 5 – Surface remains unchanged.
Grade 4 – Partial pilling or little fuzzing
Grade 3 – Mild Substance Abuse
Grade 2– Severe Pills. A vast amount of pills varying in size and density are present.
Grade 1 – Extremely Severe Pilling/Dense Surface Fuzzing
- Determine the sample’s mean result. Two specimens shouldn’t differ by more than half a grade.
Reporting Results
Generate a test report using the information below.
- Fabric sample details (such as yarn-type fabric construction)
- Pretreatment procedures followed before testing (if cleaned or dried)
- Cork Liner
- Run time of Tester
- Performance test date
- The test was also conducted using ASTM D3512.
Conclusion
In the physical testing of fabric, fabric pilling testing is crucial to maintaining brand reputation and customer satisfaction. It detects and resolves pilling in the company’s products through pilling testing. It helps the manufacturer to maintain its quality standards and customer needs. It also demonstrates how long-lasting and resilient textiles are. Manufacturers can ensure their garments fulfill strict quality requirements by following standard grading. In the end, this boosts clothing sales and consumer happiness.
Experience and Insights on ASTM D3512
- Examine the equipment every time it is used or at least once a week.
- Always use fresh cork liners for testing.
Similar Test Methods
- GB/T4802.4 – Determination of Fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing, or matting
- ISO 12945-3 – Determination of Fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing, or matting by random tumble pilling method
- ASTM D3512 – Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and other related surface changes of textile fabrics by Random Tumble Pilling Tester
- JIS L 1076 – Testing methods for pilling of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics
- DIN 53867 – Testing of textile fabrics, Determination of pilling with the Random Tumble Pilling Tester
FAQs
Which typical conditions can influence the results of fabric pilling tests?
Pilling is a complicated process because it is influenced by many technical factors that determine the overall quality of textiles. Let’s examine a few of these elements.
Fiber Type and Fabric Structure: High-strength fibers stay together with each other after pill formation; they promote fuzzing. Fiber strength is directly related to pilling. The fabric’s structure can also influence pilling. For example, a fabric with loose construction has more pills than a compact structure.
Fabric Chemical Finishes: The fabric surface treatment also impacts its pilling behavior. Pilling can be reduced by using chemical treatments that reduce fiber shedding. The fabric’s surface changes after finishing also play a major role. Fabrics with smooth surfaces are stronger and better able to withstand friction than rough surfaces.
Friction and wear: Continuous rubbing can cause shedding and clustering of fibers, which leads to pilling.
Washing and drying conditions: Try to hand wash fabric by turning garments inside out. It can also be minimized by air drying.
Fabric quality and service life: Fabric’s lifespan and quality also affect pilling. Low-quality or used fabrics have increased friction and are more prone to pilling.
How to overcome pilling?
Air drying is a great option to minimize friction. Wash garments by turning their inside out. Nowadays, fabric care labels have handling instructions; follow these instructions. Use fabric softener to make a fabric surface smoother. Don’t overload the washing machine, as it increases friction, and your garments rub against each other, which leads to pilling. Use cold water and gentle and short washing cycles for washing clothes. Washing clothes by hand also reduces pilling.
Can we get rid of pilling?
We can’t eliminate the pilling factor while dealing with specific textiles and objects. Pilling is always possible to some extent. There are a number of ways to control pilling from clothing in everyday life.
- Textile shavers are used to eliminate extra fibers from clothing. Fabrics made by either natural or synthetic yarns can have pills removed with these shavers. Fabrics made with synthetic yarns have higher strength pills and are difficult to remove.
- Sticky tape and lint remover are easy tools for this purpose.
- Velcro is also a great option to use on affected surfaces. Place the Velcro, hook side down, where pills are formed, and pull up softly. Continue until all pills are eliminated. Don’t use Velcro on light weight fabrics as it destroys these fabrics.
Does pilling mean low quality?
No, it’s completely okay if a fabric shows pilling. Although fabric’s lifespan and quality also affect pilling. Low-quality or used fabrics have increased friction and are more prone to pilling.
What is the principle of a pilling tester?
All pilling resistance tests have the same principle. i.e., to test fabric in a frictional environment. It is done either by rubbing fabric with itself or by some other material, including woolen cloth or cork liners.
How to tell if a fabric will pill?
Blended fabrics tend to pill more than pure natural fabrics. Similarly, recycled clothes, due to their prolonged usage, also show pilling than new clothes. Additionally, fabric and yarn material structure also plays a major role in the pilling resistance of fabric.
How to choose the right pilling tester?
Before choosing the pilling method in a textile lab, you must have an understanding of your requirements and pilling standards. This will help you to choose the appropriate test standard.
