Textile testing is an important part of the textile industry, ensuring the quality of yarn, fabric, and the final product. A series of tests is designed to estimate different properties of textiles, such as colorfastness tests, strength tests, durability, and comfort tests. Testing helps us identify the faults of the final product and resolve concerns. This article will give you a comprehensive knowledge of textile testing.
Types of Textile Testing
In the textile industry, the test starts from pretreatment to find out the problem at an early stage. This testing also plays a vital role in chemical compliance with transnational norms and regulations, which is needed for universal trading. The primary object of textile testing is to improve quality and ensure customer satisfaction. These tests are color fastness, shrinkage, absorbency, tear and tensile strength, weight and lint loss, blend ratio of the yarn, appearance after a wash, GSM, and phenolic yellowing.
Colourfastness Test
Colorfastness refers to the resistance of textile material to change its color, bleed its colors, or transfer its colorant to adjacent textile material or attached multifiber (which contains acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, and wool fiber) during the test. Colorfastness is the most important property of textile material. There are many methods of colorfastness, such as color fastness to water, color fastness to washing, color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to crocking/rubbing, color fastness to light, etc. A specific condition is required for each mentioned test.
Colourfastness to water
Colorfastness to water is done on both AATCC & ISO testing standards. BS EN ISO 105 E01 & AATCC 107 are the testing methods of colorfastness to water. A per spirometer and oven are the equipment used in this method. With the help of this test, we can evaluate the shade change caused by water. A testing device called a per spirometer is used for this test. A multifiber is attached to the testing specimen and kept for a specific time under a controlled atmosphere as per the concerned testing method. Both AATCC & ISO testing methods of color change to evaluate any color change or bleeding. Shade changes in the textile material and staining on the multifiber are reported in the report paper.
Colourfastness to Washing
This test is performed on both AATCC & ISO testing methods. BS EN ISO 105 C06, bs en iso 108 C08, BS EN ISO 105 CO9, C10 & AATCC TN 61 & M&S C4A are the test methods for this test. A launderometer or Gyrowash is required for this. It assesses the fabric’s ability to retain its color after repeated washing. This is usually evaluated in home laundering. The fabric is washed under controlled conditions, and the degree of color change and staining on adjacent fabric or multifiber is measured with the help of a grey scale of shade change and staining and a report.
Colorfastness to Crocking/Rubbing
Crocking refers to the transfer of dye/colours from the surface of one fabric to the surface of another fabric through rubbing. This method uses BS EN ISO 105 X12, AATCC TM8 & 116, a daRong crock meter, and crocking cloth.
The testing specimen is rubbed with a white test cloth under controlled conditions, and the amount of color transferred from the testing specimen to the rubbing fabric is assessed with the help of greyscale and makes a report.
Crocking ClothesColourfastness to Perspiration
BS EN ISO 105 E04 & AATCC 15 are the testing methods of colour fastness to perspiration. A perspirometer and an oven are the required apparatus for this method. With the help of this test, we can evaluate the fabric’s resistance to colour change when exposed to perspiration. This test is crucial for garments that will be worn close to the skin as sports wear. In this testing method, the testing specimen is treated with an artificial perspiration solution made in a lab and subjected to controlled conditions to simulate wear. Shade change of the textile material and staining on multifiber are reported.
Colourfastness to light
This test uses BS EN ISO 105 B02 and AATCC 16 methods and a light fastness tester. It measures a fabric’s ability to retain its colour when exposed to light, especially sunlight. It is mostly required for textile materials used in outdoor applications. The fabric is exposed to a light source, usually Xenon light, under controlled temperature and humidity, and the degree of fading is assessed. The degree of fade is reported in the reporting format.
Shrinkage
BS EN ISO 6330 & AATCC 135/150 are used for this test. DaRong washer and Darong dryer are required apparatus for this test. Shrinkage is the decrease in size or reduction in dimensions of textile material when it is subjected to washing, drying or other wet processes. It is a critical factor in textile quality as excessive shrinkage affects the fitness and appearance of the ready article. Shrinkage occurs due to the relaxation of fibers, the release of tension from the manufacturing, especially the weaving or knitting process, or the absorption of moisture.
There are many methods to test shrinkage, such as the home laundering method, where textile material is washed and dried under controlled conditions. After washing and drying, the percentage of shrinkage is calculated by applying different formulas. Skew, shrinkage, and differential shrinkage methods are usually applied to determine the dimensional stability of the textile material. Percent changes in dimension are reported in reporting format.
Absorbency
ASTM D4772, AATCC 79, AATCC 197 & BS EN 14697 are used for this method. A dropper and water flow tester are the reporting equipment for this test. Absorbency is the ability of a textile material to take in and retain liquid, especially water, which is a crucial property for many textile applications such as towels, sportswear and medical textiles. Absorbency depends on fibre content, yarn structure & its twists, fabric construction, and finishing processes.
There are several methods of measuring absorbency, such as the drop test, where a drop of water is placed on the surface of a fabric, and the time taken for the drop to be absorbed, and the wicking test or capillary test, which measures the distance a liquid travels along the fabric over a specific period of time, sinking test, and flow test, in which water flows on the surface of the fabric and measure the dropped water from the surface which is not absorbed. High absorbency is desirable for textiles such as towels and bathrobes that need to manage moisture and liquid effectively, while low absorbency is preferred for water-resistant applications.
Tear & Tensile Strength
BS EN ISO 13937/1/2/3 & ASTM D1424 are the test methods of tear testing & BS EN ISO 13934-1& ASTM D5034-D5035 are the test methods of tensile strength. Elmendorf tear tester is the required instrument for tear testing, while a tensile tester is used for tensile strength. Both tear strength and tensile strength methods measure the textile material’s resistance to tearing and breaking under a specific tension, respectively.
These textile testings ensure the durability and longevity of the textile material usually used in demanding applications such as workwear, outdoor gear and upholstery. Tear strength measures using the Elmendorf tear test, where a sample is cut to the required size and then subjected to a controlled force to initiate and propagate the tear. Tensile strength is measured using a tensile testing machine, where a sample is stretched until it breaks, and the maximum force is applied till the breakage of the textile material is recorded. Both tests provide valuable information about the performance of textile material.
Appearance after wash
The appearance of the textile material after washing or laundering is an important factor in customer satisfaction. Colour change or retention, smoothness, pilling, puckering, unstitching, and all visual appeals are included in it. Textile materials which maintain their original appearance after repeated washing are more likely to be favored by consumers.
To test appearance after washing, textile material is subjected to a series of laundering cycles under controlled conditions, and then the changes in appearance are evaluated. This evaluation can be done using visual assessment, where trained lab observers rate the textile material’s appearance, or using an instrument called a spectrophotometer. Ensuring a good appearance after washing is essential for maintaining the functional qualities of the textile materials.
Weight Loss
Weight loss refers to the reduction in the weight of the textile material after washing or any other treatment. This is an important property for understanding the durability and performance of the textile material. Textile material loses weight due to the removal of textile dyes, auxiliaries, and loose fibers on the surface of knitted or woven textile material. This test weighs textile material before and after treatment and calculates the percentage of weight loss. Controlling weight loss issues is very important to maintain the intended specifications and performance throughout the lifecycle.
Blend Ratio
AATCC 20 and microscope are the required methods and apparatus for this test. The blend ratio refers to the percentage of different blends in a blended textile material. This is the most important property for achieving desired characteristics such as the strength of the article, comfort, and appearance of the finished product. The test of blend ratio involves analyzing the fiber content of the textile material while using a microscope or with the help of different chemicals. Maintaining the required blend ratio is very important for optimizing the performance and quality of the blended textile materials.
Size and GSM
BS EN 12127, BS EN ISO 3801, & ASTM D3776 are the methods of GSM. Size refers to the dimensions of the textile materials, while GSM is a measure of its weight in grams per square meter. Textile material becomes more durable with the increase in GSM and becomes more breathable with a decrease in GSM. Testing of size involves measuring the dimensions of textile material before and after treatment and calculating the percentage shrinkage in textile material. Ensuring the correct size and GSM is essential for getting the required specifications as per the customer. Weight is mentioned in the report format.
Conclusion
Testing in textile industries plays a vital role. With the help of different textile testing methods, textile industries maintain their quality and specified performance and introduce new innovations to their products. AATCC, ISO, and ASTM testing methods are usually used in textile industries, and in-house testing methods are also used to increase quality and improve textile materials.
Colorfastness tests are performed to eliminate color-changing issues while exposed to water, washing, light, crocking, etc. Tear and tensile strength testing are used to check the textile material’s resistance to tearing and breaking under a specific tension. A shrinkage test determines the percentage of shrinkage that will occur when the customer washes the textile material. An absorbency test is performed to find out the capacity or capability of the textile material to absorb water. Appearance after the wash is examined in the laboratory to find out what the end product will be when the customer washes it.
Overall, Testing provides the best article to customers and secures the industry’s position among competitors.
FAQs
How to know that this fabric is colorfast?
Any textile material is color-fast, and dyes do not transfer from the dyed or printed textile material to any other material.
What is good colour fastness?
A rating of 4-0 or above indicates the good colour and fatness of the dyed or printed textile article.
How to improve colour fastness?
Excessive hot washes after dyed or printed textile material or applying a fixing agent on the textile material improve colour fastness.
What is tensile strength?
Tensile strength is the maximum load that a material can support without breakage of the fabric.
What is shrinkage?
Decrease or reduction in size is called shrinkage.
Related Resource
Difference between Tear Strength and Tensile Strength
Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8